Bobby Milheron isn’t the sort of chef who thumps his chest so that you’ll take a seat down to his meals to account that he’s one of the great fully. He’s quietly graced the kitchen at West restaurant for nearly years following Quang Dang’s departure, and the style is what you’ll discover on the plates: Elegant, delicate, and calmly assured food. And if you think of West as a unique event restaurant, the three-path spring, summer season, and fall menus will change your mind about that. The seasonal dinner menus limbo down to $39 ahead, consisting of an amuse-bouche and post-dessert mignardise. A two-course seasonal lunch menu is available at $29, plus petit fours. That, you have to agree, is a hell of an Haute deal.
The seasonal prix fixe menu is likewise determined at West’s sister restaurants in Whistler (Araxi and Il Caminetto), which give 4 or 5 publications for approximately $ forty-five at some point of the shoulder seasons.
I currently attempted the summer season 3-path menu at West, presented from Sunday to Thursday. On Friday and Saturday, you need to arrive between five:30 and 6 p.M. For the prix fixe. A pre-theatre dinner, maybe?
Every path has three picks, and a few may be upgraded with higher-value add-ons. (For instance, I should have delivered a bit of pan-roasted halibut to my albacore tuna fundamental dish for $10.)
The first path of heirloom tomatoes, avocado, smoked tomato vinaigrette, and watercress turned radiant and satisfied. The avocado wasn’t simply sliced but crafted into a dome of semifreddo.
A cucumber and almond gazpacho with verjus, Marcona almonds, and dill become every other summer adorable.
My sliced albacore tuna, seared at the outside and sashimi-rare inside, became fresh and sensitive for mains. Chermoula (a spicy natural sauce) and grilled shishito peppers introduced colorful, assertive notes. A beaten potato, tapenade salad, and black olive cracker (olive purée and tapioca starch paste are steamed, dehydrated, and fried) finished the dish. Biodynamic risotto becomes a shout-out to corn, now not simply from the kernels (off the cob) but from the corn inventory in which the rice was cooked. It turned heavenly with mascarpone cheese for creaminess, parmigiana crisps for texture, and sautéed chanterelles for umami.
The Guanaja chocolate soufflé (an extra $6) became an ideal dessert — mild on the tummy and oh-so enjoyable. A vanilla creme Anglaise poured into the soufflé tableside, changed into subtly candy, and the Valrhona 70 percent cocoa gave it chocolatey heft. A lemon tart with whipped yogurt, blueberries, and honeycomb was every other properly balanced and beautifully made dessert. Besides some of the garnishing, there’s no overlap between the seasonal prix fixe and à Los Angeles carte menus at West.
The latter menu alternatives up worldwide flavors with dishes like diver-stuck scallops and pork hock terrine with grilled cabbage and sauerkraut emulsion, and soy-sake glazed Haida Gwaii sablefish with jasmine rice, gai lan, and sesame. You’ll also discover staples, including steaks with Pont Neuf potato, confit tomato, sauce béarnaise, salmon with overwhelmed potato, olive tapenade, and green chermoula. On the à l. A. Carte menu, the chef says the butter-poached lobster with potato gnocchi, roasted mushroom, and sauce Americaine is too popular to cast off. Milheron has previously cooked at Diva at the Met, Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar, (the overdue) Nu, and La Brasserie. His cooking style complies with the wonder-chef Alex Chen at Boulevard in his easy, vivid displays.
He can, if wanted, be ferociously aggressive and currently won the B.C. Seafood Festival Chef Challenge, besting 12 chefs with a trio of seafood dishes in a black box competition. Longtime eating place and wine director Owen Knowlton, one of the nice, runs the front of the residence gracefully — that phrase that continues popping up on this overview — and oversees the temperature-managed “wall of wine.”
