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Phyllis Stein-Novack, 70, eating place critic who presented ‘pointers of the toque’

Phyllis Stein-Novack, 70, eating place critic who presented ‘pointers of the toque’

Tara C. Lee by Tara C. Lee
December 3, 2025
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Phyllis Stein-Novack, 70, of Center City, who reviewed eating places and blanketed the arts as a freelancer for newspapers, including the South Philly Review, for over two decades, died Tuesday, July 30, after protracted contamination at Thomas Jefferson University Hospital. She never went to a doctor, stated her husband of 38 years, actual estate broking, Edward Novack. She had “several ailments that caught as much as her,” he said.

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Ms. Stein-Novack, known for wearing hats that also helped her shun the digicam (she owned approximately 30 “nd many more purses,” her husband said), was born in Southwest Philadelphia. The circle of relatives moved to Lower Merion as she entered junior excessive college. She graduated from Temple University. Among her early jobs changed into working at the presidential campaign of George McGovern, where, her husband said, she hobnobbed with celebrities and politicos and learned to play cards.

Her father, Manuel Stein, a car dealer, turned into a member of the Vesper Club, and her visits to the then-personal club in Center City helped tell her tastes. She met her husband when she moved into a rental at Park Towne Place, where he had lived for a few years. Ms. Stein-Novack had always desired to be a reporter and started freelancing for newspapers, including the Camden Courier Post, The Inquirer, and The Daily News.

A love of cooking led her to the Daily News in 1982; she instructed a Philadelphia City Paper interviewer. She pitched a story idea of approximately an MMother’sDay breakfast on a mattress that youngsters could prepare dinner with adult supervision. She later reviewed nearby cookbooks for the paper. A former Daily News meals editor, Maria Gallagher, described Ms. Stein-Novack as captivated by the issue. “he appreciated cooking a lot at traveling restaurants,” she said. Although her paintings turned into “ery Philly-centric,”

Gallagher stated she had “quite an extensive-ranging hobby in food and stored up with trends.”In 1996, Ms. Stein-Novack became an everyday contributor to the South Philly Review, her most-seen paintings. Her final evaluations appeared in 2016. She also supported the Book and the Cook. This town-sponsored occasion paired cookbook authors and restaurants and wrote its cookbook. “he demanded positive things, no matter the caliber of the eating place,” Edward Novack said. “ot dishes had to be warm, no longer lukewarm. She didn’t need a communique with a waiter or waitress. Their activity is to supply meals; the patron will ask questions. She hated

‘’what are we having?”The server iisn’talways becoming a member of us. She desired light, now not dark. Food is a pleasure. If the restaurant is dim, you need to be suspicious. She additionally didn’t need to be drowned out via loud track.”She liked her beef rare, her lamb medium rare, and her cooked greens served with a chunk of crunch. She loathed candy brioche rolls enveloping savory hamburgers. She mainly loved gin martinis. She instructed City

Paper that she evolved a flavor for gin and vermouth while she became about two or three years vintage and used to swipe the olives from her ffather’smartinis. In a profession whose critics dole out stars and sometimes bells to sum up an evaluation, Ms. Stein-Novack provided “guidelines of the toque”— a reputedly old-fashioned tag that belied the passion of her assessments, however, contemplated a positive quirkiness of her writing fashion.

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